Mike Miller, who serves more than 100 whiskies at Delilah's, 2771 N.
Lincoln Ave., remembers some guys who came into the bar recently and wanted
shots of whiskey. Miller poured them some. They drank it and said, "Wow! What
was that?" Miller reported. He laughed and replied, "That's rye, boys."
You don't know about rye? Rye whiskey is pure America. German immigrant
distillers warmed Washington's troops at Valley Forge with it, and some of
those same troops brought fire and the gun to western Pennsylvania in the
Whiskey Rebellion because of it. Drunk from a tin cup or right from the
bottle, rye was the everyday drink of a country at ease with spirits.
But Prohibition almost killed it. Smuggled Canadian whiskey, often
rye-based but blended with cheaper grain spirits to lighten it, trained
Americans away from the bold blast of rye. Ironically, when most people do
call for rye these days, they expect to get Canadian.
Bourbon is fighting its way back to the respect it once enjoyed, and it
looks as if rye is finally turning some heads as well.
"Oh yeah, over the last couple of years there's been more attention paid to
rye," said Joe Congiusti, the "whiskey guy" at Sam's Wine & Spirits. "Whether
it's old people coming out of the Scotch closet and drinking rye again, or the
younger ones trying mixed drinks, everybody's experimenting; they want to try
new stuff."
It's new stuff that's really old stuff. Jimmy Russell, master distiller of
Wild Turkey, said he makes Wild Turkey Rye because "it's one of the things
we've always had. It's been in our portfolio as long as I can remember. It's
not a real big seller, but it sells fairly well. We make it about three or
four days a year."
Rye doesn't have the sweet, heavy richness of Bourbon, but it does have a
sweetness all its own. It costs about the same as Bourbon, from about $9 for a
4-year-old standard bottling, to more than $20 for older, higher-proof
examples.
Ask Russell what difference changing the mashbill from more than 51 percent
corn in Bourbon to more than 51 percent rye makes: "Well, that's kind of hard
to say. That's like eating white bread and then rye bread. It's different, but
how do you describe that difference?"
Congiusti has an idea. "I think of Bourbon as heavy, maple-syrup sweet. I
think of rye as sugar-sweet. It's lighter, more delicate and pretty smooth. It
doesn't give you the hot flashes like Bourbon."
Although rye distillers used to dot the map of Maryland and Pennsylvania,
there are only four distillers who sell rye whiskey today: Wild Turkey, Jim
Beam (Jim Beam Rye and Old Overholt), Heaven Hill (Pikesville and
Rittenhouse), and Old Potrero, the tiny distilling offshoot of Anchor Brewing.
There also are two bottlers of rye whiskey, Hirsch and Old Rip Van Winkle,
neither of which will reveal where they get their stocks of rye.
What Julian Van Winkle will talk about is the age of his rye whiskey. Aged
for 13 years, it is the oldest rye on the market.
"I had a customer in Japan who was interested in older ryes," Van Winkle
said. "I really didn't know much about rye myself, but I found some, tried it,
and was just blown away."
Old Rip Van Winkle has been doing well at Delilah's, Miller says.
"The first week I had a bottle of Van Winkle Rye on the shelf I sold a
bottle, and that's without us doing anything to promote it."
Miller thinks that's why rye doesn't sell more. It isn't there to buy.
"The consumer isn't driving the whiskey market. The consumer is drinking
what's available. But if you go to 100 taverns in Chicago, you'll see maybe
five bottles of rye."
Think you'd like to try some rye? Congiusti sells 10 varieties at Sam's,
and suggests Old Overholt as a good starter. "Then work your way up in age."
Miller stocks five ryes at Delilah's if you'd like to find one you like before
stocking the home bar.
"It's an icon," Miller says. "You can't watch a Bogey movie without hearing
`Gimme a rye!' It's a weird animal, its own animal."
That's rye, boys.
